– thanks to Peter Do

New York City.

Streetwear.

Simplicity.

Noise. 

Helmut Lang, the man himself, launched his brand “Helmut Lang” in 1986. He had a vision, which turned the basic, minimalistic clothing pieces, into high-fashion streetwear. The attention to detail brought new life, and a sense of modernism, into his looks. Lang experimented with different and unconventional materials, unique and unexpected asymmetry, and overall influenced creatives to begin thinking outside the ordinary.

Despite earning the respect of the fashion community and launching his brand into the heights of high fashion, “Helmut Lang” lost its identity in 2005, due to his departure. The once influential, innovative, and modern label declined. 

The time, however, finally came for Helmut Lang’s rebranding when Peter Do was appointed Creative Director in May 2023. Do was entrusted with the responsibility of “reviving” the brand and what it had one symbolised. He, himself, was excited for his upcoming debut collection: “No one embodied radical thinking more definitively than Helmut Lang. It is my deep honor to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of Helmut Lang’s legacy”.

This Spring/Summer collection, “Born to Go”, truly feels like an ode to New York City, like a calling to Lang’s creativity. The poem/essay, written by Ocean Vuong, captured one of the main Lang symbols for creating noise – the car, the taxi. In the poem, the car entails the queer experience – the driver has the chance to hide who they are, while still following the roads along everyone. The car is safety and security. The car is noise.

Prominently, this idea is greatly illustrated through the use of the bright yellow colours, and the belts and straps resembling seat-belts. The collection features mainly neutral colours, keeping in touch with the minimalism. To take the simplicity out of place, Do has taken advantage of pops of bright colours – pink, red, and yellow. Along with the experimentation of the tailored suits (different cuts and lengths), the new creative director has captured Lang’s legacy and formulated it into a new and exciting beginning for the brand.

This show was one of the most anticipated during the NYFW – Helmut Lang is considered the base, the main influence, of the New York City streetwear. Peter Do’s carefully curated “revival” collection was able to capture and define Lang’s “long lost” vision. The New Yorker style is unique, loud, and expressive, and these simple, yet artistic pieces, are able to revive the idea of high-fashion streetwear once again.